Cross Border Hiking Trip to Rifugio Maria Luisa, Lepontine Alps, Switzerland

Trip Summary

Difficulty: T3 difficult

Distance: 27 km

Ascent: 1,138 m

Descent: 1,134 m

Highest point 2,409 m

Day 1: Our hike started at the car park in front of Ristorante Al’Aqua in Val Bedretto. From there, the trail led us through San Giacomo, passing a small chapel and the historic Infanteriebunker San Giacomo (military designation A8442).

Infanteriebunker San Giacomo

We continued uphill to Passo San Giacomo at 2,307 metres, crossing the Swiss-Italian border. Along the way, we spotted plenty of marmots enjoying the alpine landscape.

The trail then followed the northwestern shore of Lago del Toggia. Along the way, we came across the remains of the Wagristoratore, a project designed by the famous Milanese architect Piero Portaluppia, a fascinating piece of alpine history. Opened in 1930, this unusual mountain restaurant consisted of two railway carriages - one serving as a restaurant and the other as a sleeping car. Today, only the concrete pillars remain.

Project Wagristoratore (wagon-restaurant)

After crossing the dam, it was only about another 20 minutes to Rifugio Maria Luisa, where we arrived around 4:00 pm. With only nine guests staying at the rifugio, the atmosphere was wonderfully quiet and relaxed. We settled into our room, which had two double beds.

At 7:30 pm, we joined the other guests for dinner. After a small welcoming shot of grappa, we enjoyed delicious gnocchi with Gorgonzola, slow-braised beef brasato, and cake for dessert. A perfect meal after a long day in the mountains - and a memorable evening in this cosy alpine refuge.

Day 2: After a good night at the Rifugio Maria Luisa, we had breakfast at 7:30 am and set off towards Lago Castel. The morning was beautiful, with the mountains reflected in the calm waters of the lake.

After Lago Castel, we turned left and climbed towards the Laghi Boden. The higher we went, the more impressive the landscape became. When we reached the lakes, we decided to take a break at one of them and simply enjoy this beautiful alpine setting.

From here, we could see the steep climb towards Bocchetta di Val Maggia. This mountain pass provides access to Capanna Cristallina and Capanna Basodino. I had made this trip a couple of years ago, and I remember it as one of the most beautiful areas in the Swiss Alps.

After our break at Laghi Boden, we continued along the trail, passing Rupe del Gesso before arriving once again at Passo San Giacomo. From there, we descended towards San Giacomo.

After passing the little chapel, we turned left towards Capanna Corno Gries. This section of the trail is relatively flat, but it traverses a very steep mountainside, so some caution is needed. After Pian Tono, we finally reached Capanna Corno Gries at 2,336 metres.

We already knew that the hut was fully booked and that we would not be able to stay overnight, but it was the perfect place for a well-deserved break. We ordered a Caffè Corno Gries - a hot coffee with a few drops of Amarula. Just what we needed!

After our break, we continued downhill, eventually descending almost to the main road. The walk down was beautiful, although noticeably busier and less quiet than the Italian side of the route. The road over the Nufenen Pass is popular, and there are spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

The trail eventually joined the road, and after about two hours from leaving Capanna Corno Gries, we arrived back at our car.

But before finishing the hike, we had one final treat waiting for us. Shortly before reaching the car, we stopped for a break and prepared some Raclette with bacon. After two days of hiking through the Alps, it was the perfect way to finish the trip!

#RifugioMariaLuisa #LepontineAlps #SwissAlps #PassoSanGiacomo

LINKS

www.rifugiomarialuisa.it - Rifugio Maria Luisa

www.ristorante-allacqua.ch - Ristorante & Hotel All'Acqua

www.corno-gries.ch - Capanno Corno Gries

www.map.geo.admin.ch – Topographic map of Switzerland

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wagristoratore - Project Wagristoratore